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McMurdo Station

American Antarctic base

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  • 14 chapters
A view of the largest research base in Antarctica, the United States's McMurdo Station, as seen from the very top of Observation Hill. You can just make out Discovery Hut, Robert Falcon's Scott's base
owamux · CC BY 2.0

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Through Antarctica, Port and Summer

The base was first established in the mid-1950s as part of an international program to study and explore Antarctica for peaceful purposes. Daylight is seasonal at McMurdo, corresponding to the south polar summer, and the polar night, which is also winter, lasts from about April to September. As it warms, the sea ice melts, and the port is opened, but by about February, much of the activity drops with plunging temperatures and increasing darkness, and there are usually no flights in or out until July or August.

The base has many buildings and staff which support the local population and its many field stations and research projects. The base is the starting point for the South Pole Traverse snow and ice road, which must be cleared each year, as do the snow and ice runways. The base is distant from New Zealand, about the same distance as between New York and Los Angeles, or as between Los Angeles and Hawaii. Some of the projects and/or field stations McMurdo Station has supported include the Lower Erebus Hut, for the study of Mount Erebus (an active volcano to the north of the base), WAIS Divide Camp (an ice coring project), ANDRILL (ANtarctic DRILLing Project), ANSMET (meteorite collection), and the Long Duration Balloon site. Telecommunication sites include Ross Island Earth Station, Black Island Earth Station, and the NASA Ground Station. The Amundsen–Scott South Pole Station is supported primarily through the McMurdo Station, and resources to many international camps also come through McMurdo and its facilities.

History

McMurdo started in December 1955, and was established in 1956 as a Naval Air Station in support of the International Geophysical Year, then as a science and logistics base in line with the international Antarctic treaty. Each year there are changes at the base, but the overall rhythm of the base has remained. Supplies and people flow in by ship and air for the austral summer, and for a few months there is a frenzy of activities, research, and resources flow out to many field stations and bases in Antarctica. In a few months people depart as the temperature plunges and worsening weather conditions, and much smaller staff over-winter at the base. Originally a Naval base, the role of the NSF and contractors increased and by 1993 the USN had departed. The NSF collaborates with other agencies including the U.S. Coast Guard, US Air Force, New Zealand Air Force, and NASA, as well as many academic institutions.

Name

The station takes its name from its geographic location on McMurdo Sound, named after Lieutenant Archibald McMurdo of British ship HMS Terror. The Terror, commanded by Irish explorer Francis Crozier, along with expedition flagship Erebus under command of English Explorer James Clark Ross, first charted the area in 1841. The British explorer Robert Falcon Scott established a base camp close to this spot in 1902 and built a cabin there that was named Discovery Hut. It still stands as a historic monument near the water's edge on Hut Point at McMurdo Station. The volcanic rock of the site is the southernmost bare ground accessible by ship in the world. The United States officially opened its first station at McMurdo on February 16, 1956, as part of Operation Deep Freeze. The base, built by the U.S. Navy Seabees, was initially designated Naval Air Facility McMurdo. On November 28, 1957, Admiral George J. Dufek visited McMurdo with a U.S. congressional delegation for a change-of-command ceremony.

In 1961, it was renamed from Naval Air Facility McMurdo, to just McMurdo. The Navy would be involved until 1993, when it left McMurdo in the hands of the NSF. The NSF had been involved over the decades and took on greater responsibilities over the years.

International Geophysical Year

McMurdo Station was the center of United States logistical operations during the International Geophysical Year, an international scientific effort that lasted from July 1, 1957, to December 31, 1958. After the IGY, it became the center for US scientific as well as logistical activities in Antarctica. The IGY was an international project in the late 1950s by 67 countries and involved over 4,000 research stations Globally.

McMurdo was one of seven bases that the United States built for the IGY, which also included Hallett, Wilkes, Admundsen-Scott, Ellsworth, Byrd, and Little America. Of these only McMurdo and Admundsen-Scott are still operated in the early 21st century.

As part of this endeavour, New Zealand also built a base on Ross Island, Scott Base, which has gone on to conduct many scientific projects. Scott Base is still in operation, but a second year-round New Zealand base, Vanda Station, built later on the Antarctic mainland, has since closed; it still has a weather station and is visited seasonally. Also, Hallet Station was a joint base of New Zealand and the US, which was operated until 1973.

Antarctica Treaty

The Antarctic Treaty, subsequently signed by dozens of governments, regulates intergovernmental relations with respect to Antarctica and governs the conduct of daily life at McMurdo for United States Antarctic Program (USAP) participants. The Antarctic Treaty and related agreements, collectively called the Antarctic Treaty System (ATS), opened for signature on December 1, 1959, and officially entered into force on June 23, 1961.

On the heels of the success of the IGY, the treaty was developed with three major points, to continue Antarctica's legal status, to use it for scientific purposes, and for peaceful purposes.

1960s and 70s

In 1960, one of the longest-running science experiments at McMurdo was established, the CosRay detector. This detected energetic particles from the Sun, and would operate until 2016 when it was moved to the nearby Jang Bogo station.

In 1961 the Antarctic Treaty System entered into force and the base was renamed McMurdo Station.

The first scientific diving protocols were established before 1960 and the first diving operations were documented in November 1961.

From 1961 to 1972, McMurdo Station relied on a small PM-3A nuclear reactor for power, which also provided heat for a desalination plant that produced fresh water from seawater. The reactor-powered plant could generate approximately 14,000 gallons of water per day. The reactor could produce 1.8 megawatts of power and would enable a reduction in fuel oil shipments. In the 1950s, fuel oil was about half the weight of all cargo going to Antarctica, and there was other expected benefits. The oil heaters being used to heat buildings were a fire safety hazard, and there was a demand for reliable power over the dark winter months when the station could not be resupplied.

The nuclear plant was brought to the base in December 1961, and produced electricity on July 10, 1962. The reactor was modular, and could be broken into sections small enough for a C-130 even though it was brought to McMurdo by ship. The reactor proved expensive to operate, and was turned off over concerns of stress corrosion.

In 1973 the Thiel Earth Science Laboratory (TESL) was dedicated, named after the geologist Edward Thiel. He died in 1961 in a plane that crashed trying to take off from Wilkes Station. The Thiel Laboratory later became office for Field Training Safety in the 1990s, after its work moved to the Crary lab.

Between 1962 and 1963, 28 Arcas sounding rockets were launched from McMurdo Station, collecting the first measurements above radiosonde levels of altitude in Antarctica

In 1967, the first Winter fly-in (WinFly) took place in June and August, providing a supply and personnel relief for those overwintering at McMurdo, reducing the duration of their isolation to about 4–5 months. This marked the first phase of Operation Deep Freeze, aimed at resupplying McMurdo and supporting the busy austral summer season.

In 1974, Mary Alice McWhinnie and Mary Odile Cahoon became the first women to winter over at McMurdo Station, staying from April through October of that year. In 1962 McWhinnie became the first female in the Antarctic Research Program.

1980s

In 1982 new generators were installed; this included six diesel generators that could produce 900 kilowatts each, though the number used depends on base population. It also powers the desalination plant and waste heat, heats the buildings at McMurdo.

In the late 1980s, construction started on what would be the new Crary science laboratory, a larger and connected facility that would replace some of the older labs.

In 1989, a Greenhouse for McMurdo was built, which could supply a limited supply of fresh greens year round. A new chapel was dedicated in 1989 after the previous had burned down in 1978. A temporary chapel in a quonset hut was used in the interim, though that also burned later in 1991. During this period, a number of social establishments were open, many of which were organized according to military rank. While civilians were permitted to enter any of these venues, access for military personnel was typically segregated by rank.

In the 1988-89 season a hovercraft was tested. These hovercraft could traverse over land, ice, water, and melting sea ice mixture. The design was relatively easy to use, and the McMurdo kitchen staff were test drivers after some training.

1990s

The 1990s marked a period of transition for McMurdo Station, highlighted by the withdrawal of the United States Navy, which had played a central role in the station's governance and operations since its founding. Over the preceding decades, the National Science Foundation (NSF) had gradually assumed greater responsibility and was ultimately designated as the lead agency. The NSF continued to coordinate with other entities, including the United States Coast Guard, the Air Force, NASA, and various civilian contractors.

In 1990, one area of study was the ozone layer. In particular, there was concern over ozone depletion, and measurements of this layer were taken in 1990 from McMurdo.

In December 1991, the new Crary lab, named for Albert P. Crary, was dedicated, replacing the older Thiel Earth Science Laboratory and the Eklund Biological Center.

The McMurdo greenhouse was expanded with a glasshouse expansion in 1994. A Foremost Terra bus was delivered the same year, and served until 2025; the bus could haul 56 passengers and was dubbed Ivan the Terra.

In 1995, the McMurdo Ground Station came online, which was a collaboration between NASA and the NSF; it is a communication facility with a 10-meter S and X Band antenna in polygonal dome overlooking the base. It has supported communication with satellites such as for radar mapping Antarctica and TDRSS. In 1996, the NASA Long Duration Balloon facility, a McMurdo Field Station, was established.

In 1999 the Navy conducted its final flight out from McMurdo to New Zealand, marking the end of a 44-year chapter of Naval aviation from McMurdo Station.

1998 Protocol on Environmental Protection

McMurdo Station has attempted to improve environmental management and waste removal in order to adhere to the Protocol on Environmental Protection to the Antarctic Treaty, signed on October 4, 1991, which entered into force on January 14, 1998. This agreement prevents development and provides for the protection of the Antarctic environment through five specific annexes on marine pollution, fauna and flora, environmental impact assessments, waste management, and protected areas. It prohibits all activities relating to mineral resources except scientific ones. A new waste-treatment facility was built at McMurdo in 2003.

McMurdo Station stands about two miles (3 km) from Scott Base, the New Zealand science station, and all of Ross Island lies within a sector claimed by New Zealand. Criticism has been leveled at the base regarding its construction projects, particularly the McMurdo-(Amundsen-Scott) South Pole highway.

Scientific diving operations

Scientific diving operations continue with 10,859 dives having been conducted under the ice from 1989 to 2006. A hyperbaric chamber is available for support of polar diving operations.

21st century

On 24 November 2003, McMurdo Station had a total solar eclipse, which the inhabitants were able to observe.

As of 2007, McMurdo Station was Antarctica's largest community and a functional, modern-day science station, including a harbor, three airfields (two seasonal), a heliport and more than 100 buildings.

McMurdo Station briefly gained global notice when an anti-war protest took place on February 15, 2003. During the rally, about 50 scientists and station personnel gathered to protest against the coming invasion of Iraq by the United States. McMurdo Station was the only Antarctic location to hold such a rally.

A snow and road traverse from McMurdo to the South Pole was constructed between 2002 and end of 2005, when it opened for the first time; it has gained several names and has been called the southernmost road in the world. Although the South Pole base is about a three-hour flight by LC-130 from McMurdo, the overland traverse allows massive amounts of cargo including 75,000 US gallons (280,000 L) of fuel and 20,000 pounds (9,100 kg) of cargo each year to be transported out of McMurdo.

In 2008, NASA tested an inflatable lunar habitat at McMurdo station.

Scientists and other personnel at McMurdo are participants in the USAP, which coordinates research and operational support in the region. Werner Herzog's 2007 documentary Encounters at the End of the World reports on the life and culture of McMurdo Station from the point-of-view of residents. Anthony Powell's 2013 documentary Antarctica: A Year on Ice provides time-lapse photography of Antarctica intertwined with personal accounts from residents of McMurdo Station and of the adjacent Scott Base over the course of a year.

An annual sealift by cargo ships as part of Operation Deep Freeze delivers 8 million U.S. gallons (42 million liters) of fuel and 11 million pounds (5 million kg) of supplies and equipment for McMurdo residents. The ships, operated by the U.S. Military Sealift Command, are crewed by civilian mariners. Cargo may range from mail, construction materials, trucks, tractors, dry and frozen food, to scientific instruments.

2010s

In 2011 the McMurdo Station greenhouse was demolished, which was the largest in Antarctica up to that time.

In the late 2010s, there was a transition from Pegasus Airfield to Phoenix Airfield. Phoenix Airfield underwent operational testing and received its first wheeled landings during the 2016-17 austral summer season. Pegasus Airfield closed after the last flight on 8 December 2016. Phoenix Airfield was opened in early 2017. Also, a new compressed snow "Alpha" runway was built at Williams field.

In 2017, the McMurdo Oceanographic Observatory (MOO) was installed underwater and removed in 2019; it provided underwater data and video from under the ice.

2020s

In 2020, one dormitory was demolished as part of a plan to rebuild several parts of station. A new dorm is under construction and is expected to be finished by March 2026. In the 2023–4 season, 67 of 137 projects were cut or scaled back due to housing issues. In 2023, the NIH sent investigators to McMurdo in response to reports of sexual harassment and/or assault by men and women at the station. One result of this was to ban the selling of alcohol at bars, though there is not a blanket ban on alcohol at the station.

The first confirmed case of Covid at McMurdo was detected in August 2022. By November, 10% of the population of the station was confirmed to be infected. As of February 2023, a total of 175 positive cases have been detected. Covid also reached Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station and WAIS Divide field camp (see also COVID-19 pandemic in Antarctica).

In 2022 the Ross Island Earth Station (RIES) satellite telecommunications center was completed near McMurdo Station, which supports satellite communications for the base.

For Operation Deep Freeze 2025, the ship Ocean Giant brought supplies to McMurdo Station for the 2024–2025 season, arriving in late January 2025. For this year the Marine Causeway System, rather than an ice pier, was used. The Marine Causeway consists of floating modular sections that when assembled allow the cargo to be offloaded. Ocean Giant was then loaded with trash and material for recycling, and departed, and the cargo ship Ocean Gladiator came with more supplies for the base.

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