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Bowler hat

Hard, round-crowned hat with a narrow rolled brim

  • 7 min read
  • 5 chapters

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Through Umbrella

The bowler, a protective and durable hat style, was popular with the British, Irish, and American working classes during the second half of the 19th century, and later with the middle and upper classes in the United Kingdom, Ireland, and the east coast of the United States. It became the quintessential attire of City of London gents in the early 1900s, a tradition that lasted until the 1970s.

Origins

The billycock hat, using a similar design to the bowler, dates (as recorded in the form "bully-cocked hat") from at least 1721.

The archetypal bowler hat was designed in 1849 by the London hat-makers Thomas and William Bowler to fulfill an order placed by the company of hatters James Lock & Co. of St James's, which had been commissioned by a customer to design a close-fitting, low-crowned hat to protect gamekeepers from low-hanging branches while on horseback. The keepers had previously worn top hats, which were knocked off easily and damaged.

The identity of the customer is less certain, with some suggesting it was Thomas Coke, 1st Earl of Leicester (1754–1842), who had an estate at Holkham Hall in Norfolk. However, research performed by a younger relation of the 1st Earl casts doubt on this story, and James Lock & Co. claim that the bowler was invented for Edward Coke (1824–1889), the younger brother of Thomas Coke, 2nd Earl of Leicester. When Edward Coke arrived in London on 17 December 1849 to collect his hat he reputedly placed it on the floor and stamped hard on it twice to test its strength; the hat withstood this test and Coke paid 12 shillings for it.

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