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Brunch

Meal that combines breakfast and lunch

  • 6 min read
  • 2 chapters

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Through Roasting

The term "brunch" was first used by British writer Guy Beringer in his 1895 essay "Brunch: A Plea," published in Hunter's Weekly, where he proposed it as a leisurely and more sociable alternative to traditional Sunday meals. Brunch was popularized in the early 20th century in the United States, where it first appeared in New Orleans in the late 1890s, and became a staple of upper-class dining culture in New York City in the early 1920s. While the term is Anglo-American, similar traditions exist around the world, such as Cantonese dim sum.

Brunch menus vary by location and culture. In the United States, brunch is seen as an especially indulgent meal; rich dishes such as eggs benedict and chicken and waffles are common, as well as juice-based cocktails, like the Bloody Mary and mimosa.

History

The 1896 supplement to the Oxford English Dictionary cites Punch magazine, which wrote that the term was coined in Britain in 1895 to describe a Sunday meal for "Saturday-night carousers" in the writer Guy Beringer's article "Brunch: A Plea" in Hunter's Weekly.

Instead of England's early Sunday dinner, a postchurch ordeal of heavy meats and savory pies, the author wrote, why not a new meal, served around noon, that starts with tea or coffee, marmalade and other breakfast fixtures before moving along to the heavier fare

By eliminating the need to get up early on Sunday, brunch would make life brighter for Saturday-night carousers. It would promote human happiness in other ways as well.

"Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inciting", Beringer wrote. "It is talk-compelling. It puts you in a good temper, it makes you satisfied with yourself and your fellow beings, it sweeps away the worries and cobwebs of the week."

— William Grimes, "At Brunch, the More Bizarre the Better" New York Times, 1998

Brunch developed into a luxurious restaurant meal in the American South, first appearing in New Orleans in the late 1890s. Madame Elizabeth Begué, a German immigrant to New Orleans, is credited with being the first to offer "second breakfast" at her restaurant, Begué's. Meals at Begué's would consist of a six to seven course feast spanning several hours, served with champagne and chicory coffee. The 1884 World's Fair would attract tourists to the city, bringing Begué's into national prominence. Brunch restaurants flourished in New Orleans; notable spots include Brennan's, Antoine's, and Cafe du Monde.

Brunch became popular among the upper class in New York City between 1920 and 1950. In 1939, the New York Times devoted a Sunday feature to the meal, though it notes that the term 'brunch' was chiefly used within the home; Manhattan restaurants offering the same meal advertised it under terms like 'bracer breakfast' and 'hunt breakfast.' Some leaned heavily into theming and entertainment. For their 'hunt lunch', the Hotel Lombardy's waiters wore hunting pink jackets, while at the Madison, Sunday brunches were accompanied by live music and dance. Menus typically featured substantial savory dishes—hunter-style veal and kidney sauté at the Lombardy, lamb kidneys and sausages turbigo at the Madison, fried seafood, chicken and corned-beef hashes, Boston baked beans—along with breads, pastries, eggs, juices, and coffee. Cocktails accompanied the meal where the law allowed. New York City's liquor regulations prohibited alcohol service in restaurants until 1:00 PM, so many brunches began around that time.

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