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Clothing in ancient Greece

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Through Iliad

Clothes were quite simple, draped, loose-fitting and free-flowing. Customarily, clothing was homemade and cut to various lengths of rectangular linen or wool fabric with minimal cutting or sewing, and secured with ornamental clasps or pins, and a belt, or girdle (ζώνη: zōnē). Pieces were generally interchangeable between men and women. However, women usually wore their robes to their ankles while men generally wore theirs to their knees depending on the occasion and circumstance. Additionally, clothing often served many purposes other than just being used as clothes such as bedding or a shroud.

In ancient Greece the terms ἀκεστής (male) and ἀκέστρια (female) were used for people who patched and restored clothing.

The shoemakers had two kind of knives for cutting leather, the σμίλη or σμιλίον, which has a straight blade and the τομεὺς or περιτομεύς, which had a crescent shaped blade.

Textiles

Small fragments of textiles have been found from this period at archaeological sites across Greece. These found textiles, along with literary descriptions, artistic depictions, modern ethnography, and experimental archaeology, have led to a greater understanding of ancient Greek textiles. Clothes in ancient Greece were mainly homemade or locally made.[ Linen was the most common fabric worn by both sexes until it was rejected by the men for more 'moderate clothes', as those worn by the Spartans. Wool was worn because of its warmth and ability to be dyed, unlike linen. Silk was also used for the production of clothing, though for ceremonial purposes by the wealthy. In Aristotle's The History of Animals, Aristotle talks about the collection of caterpillar cocoons to be used to create silk. There is a lot of writing from ancient Greece discussing the use of silk because it was nearly transparent, revealing the body of the person wearing it, and, therefore, perfect for women to wear. Sindon (σινδών) was a fine, lightweight cloth used for summer clothing.

Amorgina (τὰ Ἀμόργινα; singular: Ἀμόργινον), were fine, muslin-like fabrics made from amorgis (ἀμοργίς), a particular type of flax. This flax, named after the island of Amorgos, but was also grown in other regions. The fabrics produced from it were highly prized for their fine texture, being even finer than byssos (βύσσος; usually applied to linen, but sometimes to very fine cotton) and karpasos (κάρπασος; cotton (Strabo even applies it to silk)). These fabrics were almost transparent and very costly, as noted in various ancient texts. The use of the adjective ἀμοργινὸς (amorginos) in reference to these fabrics can sometimes cause confusion, as it is not always clear whether the term refers to the island of Amorgos or the flax itself.

Cilicia (Κιλίκια) was called a coarse, thick cloth woven from the hair of Cilician goats, valued for its toughness and density. It was used both for garments and for protective screens in military contexts, where it could resist arrows and fire, and later became known in Latin as cilicium, the rough material used for hairshirts.

Production process

In the production of textiles, upright warp-weighted loom were used to weave clothing in Ancient Greece.

These looms had vertical threads or warps that were held down by loom weights. The use of looms can be seen in Homer's Odyssey when Hermes comes across Calypso weaving on a loom. Another example of the loom in Homer's Odyssey can be seen when Odysseus comes across Circe for the first time. The use of looms can also be seen being depicted on ancient Greek pottery.

Color and decoration

Clothing in ancient Greece has been found to be quite colorful with a wide variety of hues. Colors found to be used include black, red, yellow, blue, green, and purple. Yellow dyed clothing has been found to be associated with a woman's life cycle. The elite typically wore purple as a sign of wealth and money as it was the most expensive dye due to the difficulty in acquiring it. The ancient Greeks also embroidered designs into their clothes as a form of decoration. The designs embroidered included representations of florals patterns and geometric patterns as well intricate scenes from Greek stories. An example of this embroidery can be seen in Homer's Iliad where Helen is described as wearing a purple textile on which she embroidered a scene of Trojans in battle.

There was the proverbial phrase Θετταλικαὶ πτέρυγες, meaning Thessalian wings, because the Thessalian cloaks had a small flap in each side which resemble wings.

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