Lably
Skip to content

Duluth, Minnesota

City in Minnesota, United States

  • 49 min read
  • 15 chapters

Related on Lably

Through Port and Iron ore

Duluth is on the north shore of Lake Superior at the westernmost point of the Great Lakes. It is the largest metropolitan area, the second-largest city, and the largest U.S. city on the lake. Duluth is accessible to the Atlantic Ocean, 2,300 miles (3,700 km) away, via the Great Lakes Waterway and St. Lawrence Seaway. The Port of Duluth is the world's farthest inland port accessible to oceangoing ships and is the largest and busiest port on the Great Lakes. It is also among the top 20 U.S. ports by tonnage. Common items shipped through Duluth include coal, iron ore, grain, limestone, cement, salt, wood pulp, steel coil, and wind turbine parts.

Duluth is a popular Midwest tourist destination. The city is home to the Great Lakes Aquarium, a freshwater aquarium. The Aerial Lift Bridge, next to Canal Park, crosses the Duluth Ship Canal into the Duluth–Superior harbor. Minnesota Point, known locally as Park Point, is the world's longest freshwater baymouth bar, stretching 6 miles (10 km). The city is also the starting point for road trips along the North Shore of Lake Superior to Thunder Bay, Ontario.

History

Native history

For both the Ojibwe and the Dakota, interaction with Europeans during the contact period revolved around the fur trade and related activities.

According to Ojibwe oral history, Spirit Island, near the Spirit Valley neighborhood, was the "Sixth Stopping Place" where the northern and southern branches of the Ojibwe Nation came together and proceeded to their "Seventh Stopping Place" near the present city of La Pointe, Wisconsin. The "Stopping Places" were places the Native Americans occupied during their westward migration because of their war with the Iroquois and as Europeans overran their territory.

Exploration and fur trade

Several factors brought fur traders to the Great Lakes in the early 17th century. The fashion for beaver hats in Europe generated demand for pelts. The French trade for beavers in the lower St. Lawrence River led to the depletion of the animals in the region by the late 1630s, after which the French searched farther west for new resources and new routes, making alliances with the Native Americans along the way to trap and deliver furs.

Étienne Brûlé is credited with the European discovery of Lake Superior before 1620. Pierre-Esprit Radisson and Médard des Groseilliers explored the Duluth area, Fond du Lac (Bottom of the Lake), in 1654 and again in 1660. The French soon established fur posts near Duluth and in the far north where Grand Portage became a major trading center. The French explorer Daniel Greysolon, Sieur du Lhut, whose name is sometimes anglicized as "DuLuth", explored the St. Louis River in 1679.

After 1792 and the independence of the United States, the North West Company established several posts on Minnesota rivers and lakes, as well as in areas to the west and northwest, for trading with the Ojibwe, the Dakota, and other native tribes. The first post was where Superior, Wisconsin, later developed; known as Fort St. Louis, the post became the headquarters for North West's new Fond du Lac Department. It had stockade walls, two houses of 40 feet (12 m) each, a shed of 60 feet (18 m), a large warehouse, and a canoe yard. Over time, Native American peoples and European Americans settled nearby, and a town gradually developed.

In 1808, German-born John Jacob Astor organized the American Fur Company. The company began trading at the Head of the Lakes in 1809. In 1817, it erected a new headquarters at present-day Fond du Lac on the St. Louis River. There, portages connected Lake Superior with Lake Vermilion to the north and with the Mississippi River to the south. After creating a powerful monopoly, Astor got out of the business around 1830, as the trade was declining. But active trade continued until the failure of the fur trade in the 1840s. European fashions changed, and many American areas were getting over-trapped, causing game to decline.

In 1832, Henry Schoolcraft visited the Fond du Lac area and wrote of his experiences with the Ojibwe Indians there. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow based the Song of Hiawatha, his epic poem relating the fictional adventures of an Ojibwe warrior named Hiawatha and the tragedy of his love for Minnehaha, a Dakota woman, on Schoolcraft's writings.

Natives signed two Treaties of Fond du Lac with the United States in the present neighborhood of Fond du Lac in 1826 and 1847; in them, the Ojibwe ceded land to the American government. As part of the Treaty of Washington (1854) with the Lake Superior Band of Chippewa, the United States placed the Fond du Lac Indian Reservation upstream from Duluth near Cloquet, Minnesota (with the western part of Cloquet partially on the reservation).

Permanent settlement

As European Americans continued to settle and encroach on Ojibwe lands, the U.S. government made a series of treaties, executed between 1837 and 1889, that expropriated vast areas of tribal lands for their use and subsequently relegated the Native American peoples to a number of small reservations. Interest in the area was piqued in the 1850s by rumors of copper mining. A government land survey in 1852, followed by a treaty with local tribes in 1854, secured wilderness lands for gold-seeking explorers, sparked a land rush, and led to the development of iron ore mining in the area. The 1854 Ojibwe Land Cession Treaty would force the Ojibwe onto what are now known as the Fond du Lac and Grand Portage Reservations, though some land rights such as hunting and fishing were retained.

Around the same time, newly constructed channels and locks in the East permitted large ships to access the area. A road connecting Duluth to the Twin Cities was also constructed. Eleven small towns on both sides of the St. Louis River were formed, establishing Duluth's roots as a city.

By 1857, copper resources were scarce and the area's economic focus shifted to timber harvesting. A nationwide financial crisis, the Panic of 1857, caused most of the city's early pioneers to leave. A history of Duluth written in 1910 says: "Of the handful remaining in 1859 four men were unemployed and one of those was a brewer. Capital idea; build a brewery. The absence of malt and hops and barley did not at all embarrass those stout-hearted settlers." The water for brewing was obtained from a stream that emptied into Lake Superior that came to be called Brewery Creek. While the brewery "was not a pecuniary success", it became the Fitger Brewing Company a few decades later.

The opening of the canal at Sault Ste. Marie in 1855 and the contemporaneous announcement of the railroads' approach made Duluth the only port with access to both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Soon, the lumber industry, railroads, and mining were all growing so quickly that the influx of workers could hardly keep up with demand; storefronts popped up almost overnight. By 1868, business in Duluth was booming. In a Fourth of July speech, Thomas Preston Foster, the founder of Duluth's first newspaper, coined the expression "The Zenith City of the Unsalted Seas".

In 1869–70, Duluth was the fastest-growing city in the country and was expected to surpass Chicago in only a few years. When Jay Cooke, a wealthy Philadelphia land speculator, convinced the Lake Superior and Mississippi Railroad to create an extension from St. Paul to Duluth, the railroad opened areas due north and west of Lake Superior to iron ore mining. Duluth's population on New Year's Day of 1869 consisted of 14 families; by the Fourth of July, 3,500 people were present to celebrate.

In the first Duluth Minnesotian printed on August 24, 1869, the editor placed the following notice on the editorial page:

Newcomers should comprehend that Duluth is at present a small place, and hotel and boarding room accommodation is extremely limited. However, lumber is cheap and shanties can be built. Everyone should bring blankets and come prepared to rough it at first.

In 1873, Cooke's empire crumbled, and the stock market crashed, causing Duluth to almost disappear from the map. But by the late 1870s, with the continued boom in lumber and mining and the completion of the railroads, Duluth bloomed again. By the turn of the century, it had almost 100,000 inhabitants and was again a thriving community with small-business loans, commerce, and trade flowing through the city. Mining continued in the Mesabi Range, and iron was shipped east to mills in Ohio. The trade continued into the 20th century.

"The Untold Delights of Duluth"

Early doubts about the Duluth area's potential were voiced in "The Untold Delights of Duluth," a speech U.S. Representative J. Proctor Knott of Kentucky gave in the U.S. House of Representatives on January 27, 1871. His speech opposing the St. Croix and Superior Land Grant lampooned Western boosterism, portraying Duluth as an Eden in fantastically florid terms. The speech has been reprinted in collections of folklore and humorous speeches and is regarded as a classic. The nearby city of Proctor, Minnesota, is named after Knott.

Duluth's unofficial sister city, Duluth, Georgia, got its name in 1871 shortly after Knott's speech gained national attention. Prominent Georgia newspaperman and politician Evan Howell had been called upon to make remarks at the dedication of a new railroad line into Howell's Crossing, a village named for his grandfather. There, Howell humorously suggested that the community be called "Duluth" instead, and townspeople agreed.

Proctor Knott is sometimes credited with characterizing Duluth as the "zenith city of the unsalted seas," but the honor for that coinage belongs to journalist Thomas Preston Foster, who spoke at a Fourth of July picnic in 1868.

20th century

During the early 20th century, Duluth emerged as a significant industrial and shipping center, and was briefly the busiest port in the United States by tonnage. The city flourished economically, with ten newspapers, six banks, and the 11-story Torrey Building symbolizing its urban growth. As of 1905, Duluth was said to be home to the most millionaires per capita in the United States. The arrival of U.S. Steel in 1907 and subsequent development of the Duluth Works plant, which began production in 1915, further stimulated expectations of rapid population growth. Alongside the plant, the company built Morgan Park as a model company town. Numerous manufacturing firms, including the Diamond Calk Horseshoe Company and Marshall Wells Hardware, further diversified the city's industrial base.

Because of its numerous jobs in mining and industry, the city was a destination for large waves of immigrants from Europe during the early 20th century. It became the center of one of the largest Finnish communities in the world outside Finland. For decades, a Finnish-language daily newspaper, Päivälehti, was published in the city, named after the former Grand Duchy of Finland's pro-independence liberal paper. The Finnish community of Industrial Workers of the World (IWW) members published the widely read labor newspaper Industrialisti. From 1907 to 1941, the Finnish Socialist Federation and then the IWW operated Work People's College, an educational institution that taught classes from a working-class, socialist perspective. Immigrants from Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Ireland, England, Italy, Poland, Hungary, Bulgaria, Croatia, Serbia, Ukraine, Romania, and Russia also settled in Duluth. At one time, Duluth was home to several historic immigrant neighborhoods, including Little Italy. Today, people of Scandinavian descent constitute a strong plurality of Duluth's population, accounting for more than a third of the residents identifying European ancestry.

In 1918, Finnish immigrant Olli Kinkkonen was lynched by the Knights of Liberty for refusing military service, a reflection of World War I-era nationalist fervor. In 1920, three African American circus workers—Elias Clayton, Elmer Jackson, and Isaac McGhie—were lynched by a white mob in the Duluth lynchings after a false accusation of rape. In 1970, journalist Michael Fedo wrote The Lynchings in Duluth, which began to raise awareness of the event. In 2003, the Clayton Jackson McGhie Memorial was dedicated at the lynching site, and the CJMM Committee continues to promote racial justice and public education in their memory.

Tragedy struck again when the 1918 Cloquet Fire ravaged northeastern Minnesota, including the Duluth area. It remains the deadliest natural disaster in Minnesota history. The fire destroyed numerous rural communities, leaving hundreds dead and thousands homeless. The Duluth Minnesota National Guard unit was deployed to battle the fire and assist survivors. Retired Duluth News Tribune columnist and journalist Jim Heffernan wrote that his mother "recalled an overnight vigil watching out the window of their small home on lower Piedmont Avenue with her father, her younger sisters having gone to sleep, ready to be evacuated to the waterfront should the need arise. The fire never made it that far down the hill, but devastated what is now Piedmont Heights, and, of course, a widespread area of Northeastern Minnesota." In the fire's aftermath, tens of thousands of people were left injured or homeless; many of the refugees fled into the city for aid and shelter.

Throughout the first half of the 20th century, Duluth continued to grow as an industrial port town, shipping iron ore from the Mesabi Range and supporting a network of grain elevators, mills, and factories. The Aerial Lift Bridge (earlier known as the "Aerial Bridge" or "Aerial Ferry Bridge") was built in 1905 and was the United States' first transporter bridge. Only one other like it was ever constructed in the country. Duluth played a critical role in wartime production during both world wars, especially through shipbuilding in Riverside, a neighborhood created to house workers. The population peaked in 1960 at 107,884.

Economic decline began in the 1950s, when high-grade iron ore ran out on the Iron Range north of Duluth; ore shipments from the Duluth harbor had been critical to the city's economy. Low-grade ore (taconite) shipments continued, boosted by new taconite pellet technology, but ore shipments were lower overall. In the 1970s and early 1980s, Duluth was hit hard by the U.S. steel crisis, leading to the closure of the Duluth Works plant in 1981 and other dependent industries, including the cement factory. The resulting economic downturn devastated the city, especially the West Side, and unemployment rose sharply, peaking at 15% by the late 1980s.

During the 1980s, plans were underway to extend Interstate 35 through Duluth and up the North Shore, bringing new access to the city. The original plan called for the interstate to run along the shore on an elevated concrete structure, blocking the city's access to Lake Superior. Kent Worley, a local landscape architect, wrote an impassioned letter to then mayor Ben Boo asking that the route be reconsidered. The Minnesota Department of Transportation then agreed to take another look, with Worley consulting. The new plan called for parts of the highway to run through tunnels, which allowed preservation of Fitger's Brewery, Sir Ben's Tavern, Leif Erikson Park, and Duluth's Rose Garden. Rock used from the interstate project was used to create an extensive new beach along Lake Superior, along which the city's Lakewalk was built.

21st century

With the decline of the city's industrial core, the local economic focus gradually shifted to tourism. The downtown area was renovated to emphasize its pedestrian character: streets were paved with red brick, and skywalks and retail shops were added. The city and developers worked with the area's unique architectural character, converting old warehouses along the waterfront into cafés, shops, restaurants, and hotels. Combined with the new rock beach and Lakewalk, these changes developed the new Canal Park as a tourism-oriented district. Duluth's population, which had declined since 1960, stabilized at around 85,000.

In the 21st century, Duluth has become a regional center for banking, retail shopping, and medical care for northern Minnesota, northern Wisconsin, and northwestern Michigan. It is estimated that more than 8,000 jobs in Duluth are directly related to its two hospitals. Arts and entertainment offerings, as well as year-round recreation and the natural environment, have contributed to the tourist industry's expansion. Some 3.5 million visitors each year contribute more than $400 million to the local economy.

A group of like-minded businesses in Lincoln Park, an old rundown blue-collar neighborhood with high unemployment and poverty rates, was cultivated by a group of entrepreneurs who have been rebuilding and revitalizing the area. Since 2014, at least 25 commercial real estate transactions have occurred, and 17 businesses have opened, including restaurants, breweries, coffee shops and artist studios. Due to the neighborhood's revitalization, many developers are also investing in housing projects in anticipation of further growth.

Duluth's prominence as a port city gave it an economic advantage in its early years, but as various industries began to wane, new efforts to reclaim areas of the waterfront for public use emerged. Notable among them is the reclamation of the St. Louis River corridor, which runs along the edge of the city's western neighborhoods. Many of these sites, filled with legacy pollutants from industrial use, have been or are in the process of being restored by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), with several developments, such as Pier B Resort and Hotel, demonstrating the revitalization opportunity of these spaces. The Duluth Waterfront Collective has led other efforts to reclaim waterfront space, including the Highway 61 Revisited concept, which seeks to reimagine the I-35 corridor as it runs through the city's downtown. While the acreage of land using the waterway for port-related purposes has shifted in recent years, the goods shipped through the Duluth–Superior port have changed with the economy. In recent decades, shipments of coal and iron ore have declined while shipments of wind turbine components and multimodal shipping containers have increased.

Sign in to keep reading

14 more chapters are free with a Lably account.

More in Earth science