Mount Columbia (Canada)

The mountain was named in 1898 by J. Norman Collie after the Columbia River. The river itself was named after the American ship Columbia Rediviva captained by Robert Gray, who first ventured over a dangerous sandbar and explored the lower reaches of the river in 1792. Mount Columbia was first ascended in 1902 by James Outram, guided by Christian Kaufmann. The first winter ascent of Columbia was completed on March 14, 1944, by about thirty men led by Major Douglas Groff of Winnipeg, during the course of a three-day patrol on the Icefield, using snow holes as sleeping quarters.

Climbing routes

The normal route is on the east face, a non-technical glacier climb that is straightforward in summer, albeit with a long approach (approx. 19 km (12 mi)) up the Athabasca Glacier and over the Columbia Icefield. Camping by King's Trench can reduce the approach down to 8 km (5.0 mi). Other routes include the North Ridge, which is more technical (Grade V, YDS 5.7, W3) but considered more spectacular.