Zardozi
Type of embroidery using metal wire
- 3 min read
- 3 chapters
Related on Lably
Through Indian subcontinent, Central Asia and Handicraft
Initially, the embroidery was done with pure silver wires and real gold leaves. However, today, craftsmen make use of a combination of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and silk thread.
Iran
Zardozi is an important handicraft in Persian culture. It is known around the country by names such as zar-douzi (Persian: زردوزی), kam-douzi (Persian: کمدوزی), gol-douzi (Persian: گلدوزی) and kaman-douzi (Persian: کماندوزی). Nowadays it is more popular in Hormozgan, especially in Bandar-e Lenge, Bandar-e Abbas, and Minab.
Persian zardozi is of three kinds:
- Some people completely sew the basic fabric with Bakhie (Persian: بخیه) in order to produce novel patterns and colors, such as the Baloch's Souzan-douzi (Persian: سوزندوزی), Rasht's Qollab-douzi (Persian: قلابدوزی) and Kerman's Pate-douzi (Persian: پَتهدوزی).
- Some sew with less density of work on the original fabric. They cross the strings throughout the woof of the fabric and sew them to each other to form a colorfully patterned lattice, such as sekke-douzi (Persian: سکّهدوزی) or qollab-douzi (Persian: قلابدوزی) in Isfahan.
- A third way is to sew a variety of patterns on the original fabric with gold and silver strings, such as Dah-Yek-Douzi (Persian: دهيکدوزی), Naqade-douzi (Persian: نقدهدوزی), Tafte-douzi (Persian: تافتهدوزی), Kous-douzi (Persian: خوسدوزی) Zari-douzi (Persian: زردوزی) or Golabatoun-douzi (Persian: گلابتوندوزی).
Sign in to keep reading
2 more chapters are free with a Lably account.
Indian subcontinent
As an embroidery, zardozi was first used in the 14th century. It prospered during the 17th century during the reign of the Mughal empire, but later a loss of royal patronage and industrialization led to its decline. The craft is often called "zari" and began to experience a resurgence in popularity following India's independence in 1947. Today, it is one of the most popular embroideries found on the Indian subcontinent.
Zardozi and chikan were historically favored by Mughal elites; products made in these styles symbolized wealth, power and status. The Zardozi production was often associated with a courtly culture and commonly found on handicrafts throughout the country. This craft is practiced throughout India, from major cities like Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai, to smaller centers such as Agra, Bareilly, and Farrukhabad, and historic regions like Lucknow, Hyderabad, and Bhopal. In 2013, the Geographical Indication Registry (GIR) accorded Geographical Indication (GI) registration to the Lucknow zardozi. With GI status, zardozi artisans, distributors, and retailers in Lucknow and the six surrounding districts of Barabanki, Unnao, Sitapur, Rae Bareli, Hardoi and Amethi can become authorized users of the "Lucknow zardozi" brand and carry a unique mark of authenticity.
Zardozi is a popular embroidery choice across Pakistan especially for wedding or formal wear, with artisans and couture houses alike producing clothing with zardozi work
Central Asia
Zardozi has also been present in Tajikistan and Uzbekistan since ancient times.