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Italian fashion

Overview of fashion in Italy

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Through Italy, Rome and Cosmetics

Italian fashion became prominent during the 11th to 16th centuries, when artistic development in Italy was at its peak. Cities such as Rome, Palermo, Venice, Milan, Naples, Florence, and Vicenza started to produce luxury goods, hats, cosmetics, jewelry, and rich fabrics. From the 17th century to the early 20th century, Italian fashion lost its importance and lustre, and Europe's main trendsetter became France, with the great popularity of French fashion; this is due to the luxury dresses designed for the courtiers of Louis XIV. Since the 1951–1953 period, fashion soirées held by Giovanni Battista Giorgini in Florence, the "Italian school" started to compete with the French haute couture, and labels such as Prada and Gucci began to contend with Chanel and Dior. In 2009, according to the Global Language Monitor, Milan, Italy's centre of design, was ranked the top fashion capital of the world, and Rome was ranked fourth. Although both cities fell in subsequent rankings, Florence entered as the 31st world fashion capital in 2011. Milan is generally considered to be one of the "big four" global fashion capitals, along with New York, Paris, and London; occasionally, the "big five" also includes Rome.

Italian fashion is linked to the most generalized concept of "Made in Italy", a merchandise brand expressing excellence of creativity and craftsmanship. Many French, British, and American high-top luxury brands (such as Chanel, Dior, Hermès, and the main line of Ralph Lauren) also rely on Italian craft factories, located in highly specialized areas in the metropolitan area of Naples and in the centre-north of Italy (Tuscany, Marche, Veneto, Lombardy, and Piedmont), to produce parts of their apparel and accessories.

The nonprofit association that co-ordinates and promotes the development of Italian fashion is the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), now led by Carlo Capasa. It was set up in 1958 in Rome, is now settled in Milan and represents all the highest cultural values of Italian fashion. This association has pursued a policy of organisational support aimed at the knowledge, promotion and development of fashion through high-profile events in Italy and abroad. Young and upcoming designers are also promoted in Italy, as in the annual ITS (International Talent Support Awards) young fashion designer competition in Trieste.

Italian fashion houses, designers and luxury brands

Examples of major Italian fashion houses focused on both menswear and womenswear, but also accessories:

  • Armani (founded by Giorgio Armani and now directed by Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani for the main lines and haute couture and by Dario Vitale for Emporio Armani and accessories)
  • Balestra
  • Bottega Veneta (now designed by Louise Trotter after Matthieu Blazy's directorship)
  • Roberto Cavalli (directed by Fausto Puglisi)
  • Costume National
  • Brunello Cucinelli
  • Diesel (previously directed by Glenn Martens)
  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • Dsquared2 (created by Canadian duo Dean and Dan Caten)
  • Etro (previously directed by Marco De Vincenzo)
  • Fendi (previously directed by Karl Lagerfeld for women's clothes and ready to wear and Silvia Venturini Fendi for accessories, now headed by Maria Grazia Chiuri)
  • Ferragamo (designed by Maximilian Davis)
  • Ferrari (designed by Rocco Iannone)
  • Gianfranco Ferré
  • Fiorucci (now under the directorship of Francesca Murri)
  • Gucci (formerly directed by Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, Alessandro Michele and Sabato De Sarno and from March 2025 by Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia, ex creative director at Kering's Balenciaga)
  • Iceberg (directed by James Long)
  • Jil Sander (founded by eponymous German designer but headquartered in Italy and previously designed by Lucie and Luke Meier, now directed by Simone Bellotti, heading also at Swiss house Bally)
  • John Richmond
  • Kiton
  • Loro Piana
  • Marni (founded by Consuelo Castiglioni and now directed by Meryll Rogge after the long directorship of Francesco Risso)
  • Missoni (directed by Alberto Caliri)
  • Miu Miu (founded and directed by Miuccia Prada)
  • Moncler
  • Moschino (created by Italian duo Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, after the long directorship of Jeremy Scott and the short periods under Davide Renne's guide and under Adrian Appiolaza)
  • Prada (Raf Simons joined Miuccia Prada as creative co-director)
  • Pucci (created by Camille Miceli)
  • Ermanno Scervino
  • Tod's (designed by Matteo Tamburini)
  • Trussardi
  • Valentino (founded by Valentino Garavani, formerly directed by Pierpaolo Piccioli and now by Alessandro Michele)
  • Versace (founded by Gianni Versace now directed by Pieter Mulier after the short directorship of Dario Vitale and the longer supervision of Donatella Versace)

Examples of major fashion brands which are specialized mainly at womenswear and also accessories for women are Laura Biagiotti, Blumarine (founded by Anna Molinari and now designed by David Koma), Capucci, Chiara Boni, Alberta Ferretti (now directed by Lorenzo Serafini), Gattinoni, Genny (designed by Sara Cavazza Facchini), Giamba (created by designer Giambattista Valli), Krizia (founded by Mariuccia Mandelli and now art directored by Zhu Chongyun), La Perla, Luisa Spagnoli, Max Mara (created by Ian Griffiths), Philosophy, Mila Schon, and Twin-set Milano, while the most important luxury houses which focus only on menswear and accessories for men are Brioni, Canali, Cesare Attolini, Corneliani, Lardini, Stefano Ricci, Zegna (directed by Alessandro Sartori), and Pal Zileri.

Luxury sportswear and streetwear have become general fashion trends, mixing high and low, formal and active style in one look. Large luxury brands focused on ready to wear (or couture) developed their own streetware lines and items such as Gucci, Fendi, Moschino and Prada. Brands with a history of sports wear such as Bikkembergs also have participated in this trend. Companies such as GCDS and OFF White were founded in the 2010s with a focus in streetwear. In sportswear, some prominent houses are Diadora, Fila, and Kappa.

A few Italian designers head (or have headed) some important fashion brands outside Italy. Riccardo Tisci worked for French luxury house Givenchy for twelve years until 2017 and in 2018 was named British Burberry's creative director until 2022; now LVMH's Givenchy appointed Marco De Vincenzo to oversee its leather goods division; Maria Grazia Chiuri after co-heading at Valentino together with Pier Paolo Piccioli (who is at the head of Balenciaga since 2025) was the first female creative director ever at Dior until 2025; French fashion brand Rochas had been directed by Alessandro Dell'Acqua for a few years and now by Alessandro Vigilante; Marco Colagrossi heads Ungaro after a few years under the directorship of Fausto Puglisi; Nicola Formichetti was artistic director at Mugler; Veronica Leoni is Calvin Klein Collection's director; Nino Cerruti founded his own Paris-based fashion house; Giambattista Valli's main ready to wear and high fashion lines are set in Paris and Stefano Pilati was for almost eight years Saint Laurent's head designer before creating an affordable clothing and accessories line for Zara in 2024.

Among the newest labels or younger designers, the most prominent are Calcaterra, Del Core, Federico Cina, Giuseppe Di Morabito, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, Stella Jean, Niccolò Pasqualetti, Sa su phi and The Attico. Other luxury labels which are mainly focused on the production of leather goods such as accessories, especially belts or shoes, are Anderson's, Aquazzura, Baldinini, Ballin, Bontoni, Casadei, Rene Caovilla, Bruno Magli, Paciotti, Pollini, Gianvito Rossi, Sergio Rossi, and Giuseppe Zanotti, while fashion brands or labels which produce primarily bags, totes, suitcases are Braccialini, Furla, Mandarina Duck, Piquadro, Serapian, and Valextra. Italy is home to many fashion magazines, such as Vogue Italia, Vanity Fair, Elle, Glamour, Grazia. Other Italian accessory and jewelry brands, such as Luxottica (owner, amongst several luxury eyewear brands, of Ray-Ban and Persol), Safilo, Marcolin, Buccellati, Damiani, Vhernier, Pomellato, Dodo, Morellato, Officine Panerai, and Bvlgari.

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