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Order of the Garter

British order of chivalry

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Through Image and Crusades

Appointments are at the Sovereign's sole discretion, typically made in recognition of national contribution, service to the Crown, or for distinguished personal service to the Monarch. Membership of the order is limited to the sovereign, the Prince of Wales, and no more than 24 living members, or Companions. The order also includes Supernumerary Knights and Ladies (e.g., members of the British royal family and foreign monarchs).

The order's emblem is a garter circlet with the motto Honi soit qui mal y pense (Anglo-Norman for "shamed be (the person) who thinks evil of it", in older translations "evil be to him who thinks of evil") in gold script. Members of the order wear it on ceremonial occasions.

History

King Edward III founded the Order of the Garter around the time of his claim to the French throne. The traditional year of foundation is usually given as 1348 (when it was formally proclaimed). However, The Complete Peerage, under "The Founders of the Order of the Garter", states the order was first instituted on 23 April 1344, listing each founding member as knighted in 1344. The list includes Sir Sanchet D'Abrichecourt, of whom the latest notice (according to the book) is 20 October 1345. Other dates from 1344 to 1351 have also been proposed. The King's wardrobe account shows Garter habits first issued in the autumn of 1348. Also, its original statutes required that each member of the Order already be a knight (what would now be referred to as a knight bachelor) and some of the initial members listed were only knighted that year. Its foundation is likely to have been inspired by the Castilian Order of the Band, established in about 1330.

List of Founder Knights

At the time of its foundation, the Order consisted of King Edward III, together with 25 Founder Knights, listed in ascending order of stall number in St George's Chapel:

  • King Edward III (1312–1377)
  • Edward the Black Prince, Prince of Wales (1330–1376)
  • Henry of Grosmont, 4th Earl of Lancaster (c. 1310–1361)
  • Thomas de Beauchamp, 11th Earl of Warwick (1313–1369)
  • Jean de Grailly, III Captal de Buch (d. 1376)
  • Ralph de Stafford, 1st Earl of Stafford (1301–1372)
  • William de Montacute, 2nd Earl of Salisbury (1328–1397)
  • Roger Mortimer, 2nd Earl of March (1328–1360)
  • John, 2nd Baron Lisle (1318–1355)
  • Bartholomew, 2nd Baron Burghersh (c. 1329–1369)
  • John, 1st Baron Beauchamp (d. 1360)
  • John, 2nd Baron Mohun (c. 1320–1376)
  • Sir Hugh de Courtenay (1327–1349)
  • Thomas Holland, 1st Earl of Kent (1314–1360)
  • John, 1st Baron Grey de Rotherfield (1300–1359)
  • Sir Richard Fitz-Simon (1295–1348/49)
  • Sir Miles Stapleton of Bedale (c. 1320–1364)
  • Sir Thomas Wale (1303–1352)
  • Sir Hugh Wrottesley (d. 1381)
  • Sir Nele Loring (1320–1386)
  • Sir John Chandos (c. 1320–1369)
  • Sir James Audley (c. 1318–1369)
  • Sir Otho Holand (c. 1316–1359)
  • Sir Henry Eam (d. before 1360)
  • Sir Sanchet D'Abrichecourt (c. 1330–1359)
  • Sir Walter Paveley (1319–1375)

They are all depicted by individual portraits in the Bruges Garter Book compiled c. 1431, and now in the British Library.

Legendary origins

Various legends account for the origin of the Order. The most popular involves the "Countess of Salisbury", whose garter is said to have slipped from her leg while she was dancing at a court ball at Calais. When the surrounding courtiers sniggered, the King picked it up and returned it to her, exclaiming, "Honi soit qui mal y pense" ("Shame on him who thinks ill of it"), which phrase has become the Order's motto. However, the earliest written version of this story dates from the 1460s, and it seems to have been conceived as a retrospective explanation for the adoption of what was then seen as an item of female underclothing as the symbol of a band of knights. In fact, at the time of the Order's establishment in the mid-14th century, garters were predominantly an item of male attire.

According to another legend, King Richard I was inspired in the 12th century by St George the Martyr while fighting in the Crusades to tie garters around the legs of his knights, who subsequently won the battle. King Edward supposedly recalled the event in the 14th century when he founded the Order. This story is recounted in a letter to The Annual Register in 1774:

In Rastel's Chronicle, I. vi. under the life of Edward III is the following curious passage: "About the 19 yere [sic] of this kinge, he made a solempne feest at Wyndesore, and a greate justes and turnament, where he devysed, and perfyted substanegally, the order of the knyghtes of the garter; howe be it some afferme that this order began fyrst by kynge Rycharde, Cure de Lyon, at the sege of the citye of Acres; where, in his great necessyte, there were but 26 knyghtes that fyrmely and surely abode by the kynge; where he caused all them to were thonges of blew leyther about theyr legges. And afterwarde they were called the knyghtes of the blew thonge." I am obliged for this passage to John Fenn, Esq; a curious and ingenious gentleman of East-Dereham, in Norfolk, who is in possession of the most rare book whence it is taken. Hence some affirm, that the origin of the garter is to be dated from Richard I* and that it owes its pomp and splendor to Edward III.

*Winstanley, in his Life of Edward III says that the original book of the institution deduces the invention from King Richard the First.

The motto in fact refers to Edward's claim to the French throne, and the Order of the Garter was created to help pursue this claim. The use of the garter as an emblem may have derived from straps used to fasten armour, and may have been chosen because it held overtones of a tight-knit "band" or "bond" of knightly "supporters" of Edward's cause.

There is a connection between the Order of the Garter and the Middle English poem Sir Gawain and the Green Knight (late 14th century). The motto is inscribed, as hony soyt qui mal pence, at the end of the text in the sole surviving manuscript in the British Library, albeit in a later hand. In the poem, a girdle, very similar in its erotic undertones to the garter, plays a prominent role. A rough equivalent of the Order's motto has been identified in Gawain's exclamation corsed worth cowarddyse and couetyse boþe ('cursed be both cowardice and coveting', v. 2374). While the author of that poem remains disputed, there seems to be a connection between two of the top candidates and the Order of the Garter, John of Gaunt, 1st Duke of Lancaster, and Enguerrand de Coucy, seventh Sire de Coucy. De Coucy was married to King Edward III's daughter, Isabella, and was given admittance to the Order of the Garter on their wedding day."

Ladies of the Garter

Soon after the founding of the order, women were appointed "Ladies of the Garter", but some historians argue that they were not appointed companions, as they were not knights. Queen Philippa was the first lady to be appointed in 1358. King Henry VII discontinued the practice in 1488; his mother, Lady Margaret Beaufort, was the last Lady of the Garter before Queen Alexandra.

Except for female sovereigns, the next Lady of the Garter named was Queen Alexandra, by her husband King Edward VII. King George V also made his consort, Queen Mary, a Lady of the Garter and King George VI subsequently did the same for his wife, Queen Elizabeth, and his daughter Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth II). Throughout the 20th century, women continued to be associated with the Order, but save for foreign female monarchs, they were not made Companions.

In 1987, by a statute of Queen Elizabeth II, the installation of "Ladies Companion of the Garter" became possible. Unlike previous queens consort, Queen Camilla was named a Royal Lady of the Garter by her mother-in-law, Queen Elizabeth II, when she was still the Duchess of Cornwall.

In 2022, Valerie Amos, Baroness Amos, became the first black Lady Companion of the Order since its foundation. Eliza Manningham-Buller, Baroness Manningham-Buller, became the first Lady Companion to be appointed chancellor of the Order, on 18 June 2024.

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