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History of the hamburger

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Through Globalization and Pizza

There is still some controversy over the origin of the hamburger – mainly because its two basic ingredients, bread and beef, have been prepared and consumed separately for many years in many countries prior to their combination. However, after various controversies in the 20th century, including a nutritional controversy in the late 1990s, the burger is now readily identified with the United States, as well as a particular style of American cuisine, namely fast food. Along with fried chicken and apple pie, the hamburger has become a culinary icon in the United States.

The hamburger's international popularity is the result of the larger globalization of food that also includes the rise in global popularity of other national dishes, including the Italian pizza, Chinese fried rice, and Japanese sushi. The hamburger has spread from continent to continent, perhaps because it matches familiar elements in different culinary cultures. This global culinary culture has been produced, in part, by the concept of selling processed food, first launched in the 1920s by the White Castle restaurant chain and its founder Edgar Waldo "Billy" Ingram and then refined by McDonald's in the 1940s. This global expansion provides economic points of comparison like the Big Mac Index, by which one can compare the purchasing power of different countries where the Big Mac hamburger is sold.

Origins

Apicius describes a ground meat dish, isicia omentata, which consists of chopped meat wrapped in caul fat and sauteed in a reduction of grape juice.

Another precursor to the hamburger is steak tartare, a seasoned ground beef patty served raw. It is not known when the first restaurant recipe for steak tartare appeared. While not providing a clear name, the first description of steak tartare was given by Jules Verne in 1875 in his novel Michael Strogoff. There are certain similarities between steak tartare and the German dishes Labskaus and Mett.

Other similar raw, chopped meats appeared in the 20th century. One of the earliest known references to a "Hamburgh [sic] Sausage" dates to 1763 in Hannah Glasse's Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy. Hamburgh Sausage is made with minced meat and a variety of spices, including nutmeg, cloves, black pepper, garlic, and salt, and is typically served with toast. Other dishes are also made with minced meat, such as meatloaf, the Serbian pljeskavica, the Arab kofta, and meatballs.

The word sandwich was not recorded until the 18th century. Many cultures claim invention of the sandwich, but it was given its name around the year 1765 in honour of the English aristocrat John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich, who preferred to eat sandwiches for the convenience so he could continue to play cards. In 1840, Elizabeth Leslie Cook included a sandwich recipe in her cookbook and it appeared in the local cuisine of the United States.

Hamburg and its port

Minced meat was a delicacy in medieval cuisine, red meat usually being restricted to the higher classes. Very little mincing was done by medieval butchers or recorded in the cookbooks of the time, perhaps because it was not part of the sausage-making process that preserves meat.

During the first half of the 19th century, most European emigrants to the New World embarked from Liverpool, England and rivalled later in the 19th century by Bremerhaven and Hamburg, Germany, and New York City was their most common destination. Restaurants in New York offered Hamburg-style American fillet, or even beefsteak à la Hambourgeoise. Early American preparations of minced beef were therefore made to fit the tastes of European immigrants, evoking memories of the port of Hamburg and the world they left behind.

Hamburg steak

In the late 19th century, the Hamburg steak became popular on the menus of many restaurants in the port of New York. This might consist of a fried patty of chopped beef, eggs, onions, and seasoning, or it might be lightly salted and often smoked, and served raw in a dish along with onions and bread crumbs. The oldest document that refers to the Hamburg steak is a Delmonico's Restaurant menu from 1873 which offered customers an 11-cent plate of Hamburg steak prepared according to a recipe developed by American chef Charles Ranhofer (1836–1899). This price was high for the time, twice the price of a simple fillet of beef steak. However, by the end of the century the Hamburg steak was gaining popularity because of its ease of preparation, which in turn decreased its cost. This is evident from its detailed description in some of the most popular cookbooks of the day. Documents show that this preparation style was used by 1887 in some U.S. restaurants and was also used for feeding patients in hospitals; the Hamburg steak was served raw or lightly cooked and was accompanied by a raw egg.

The menus of many American restaurants during the 19th century included a Hamburg beefsteak that was often sold as a breakfast item. A variant of Hamburg steak is the Salisbury steak, which is usually served with a gravy similar in texture to brown sauce. Invented by Dr. James Salisbury (1823–1905), the term Salisbury steak has been used in the United States since 1897. Nowadays, in the city of Hamburg as well as in other parts of northern Germany, this type of dish is called Frikadelle, Frikandelle, or Bulette, which is similar to the meatball. The term hamburger steak was replaced by hamburger by 1930, which has in turn been somewhat displaced by the simpler term burger. The latter term is now commonly used as a suffix to create new words for different variants of the hamburger, including cheeseburger, porkburger, baconburger and mooseburger. There are other foods with names derived from German cities that are shortened in different ways in American English. An example is the frankfurter, often abbreviated as frank.

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