Lably
Skip to content

Madeira

Portuguese archipelago in the North Atlantic

  • 32 min read
  • 6 chapters

Related on Lably

Through Portugal, Atlantic Ocean and Archipelago

Madeira is an archipelago situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, in the region of Macaronesia, just under 400 kilometres (250 mi) north of the Canary Islands, Spain, 520 kilometres (320 mi) west of Morocco and 805 kilometres (500 mi) southwest of mainland Portugal. Madeira sits on the African tectonic plate, but is culturally, politically and ethnically associated with Europe, with its population predominantly descended from Portuguese settlers. Its population was 251,060 in 2021. The capital of Madeira is Funchal, on the main island's south coast.

The archipelago includes the islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, and the Desertas, administered together with the separate archipelago of the Savage Islands. Roughly half of the population lives in Funchal. The region has political and administrative autonomy through the Administrative Political Statute of the Autonomous Region of Madeira provided for in the Portuguese Constitution. The region is an integral part of the European Union as an outermost region. Madeira generally has a mild/moderate subtropical climate with Mediterranean summer droughts and winter rain. Many microclimates are found at different elevations.

Madeira, uninhabited at the time, was claimed by Portuguese sailors in the service of Prince Henry the Navigator in 1419 and settled after 1420. The archipelago is the first territorial discovery of the exploratory period of the Age of Discovery. In the late 15th. century, it was a major exporter of slave-cultivated sugar, and in the 18th. century of wine. A tourist trade developed from the late 19th century, but was insufficient to stem a pattern of emigration from the island to Africa and to the Americas.

Madeira today is a year-round resort, particularly for Portuguese, British (148,000 visits in 2021), and German tourists (113,000). It is by far the most populous and densely populated Portuguese island. The region is noted for its Madeira wine, flora, and fauna, with its pre-historic laurel forest, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The destination is certified by EarthCheck. The main harbour in Funchal has long been the leading Portuguese port in cruise ship dockings, an important stopover for Atlantic passenger cruises between Europe, the Caribbean and North Africa. In addition, the International Business Centre of Madeira, also known as the Madeira Free Trade Zone, was established in the 1980s. It includes (mainly tax-related) incentives.

History

Ancient

Plutarch in his Parallel Lives (Sertorius, 75 AD) referring to the military commander Quintus Sertorius (d. 72 BC), relates that after his return to Cádiz, he met sailors who spoke of idyllic Atlantic islands: "The islands are said to be two in number separated by a very narrow strait and lie 10,000 furlongs [2,000 km] from Africa. They are called the Isles of the Blessed."

Archaeological evidence suggests that the islands may have been visited by the Vikings sometime between 900 and 1030.

Accounts by Muhammad al-Idrisi state that the Mugharrarin ("the adventurers" – seafarers from Lisbon) came across an island where they found "a huge quantity of sheep, the meat of which was bitter and inedible" before going on to the more inhabited Canary Islands (now a territory of Spain). This island, possibly Madeira or Hierro, must have been inhabited or previously visited by people for livestock to be present.

Legend

During the reign of King Edward III of England, lovers Robert Machim and Anna d'Arfet were said to have fled from England to France in 1346. Driven off course by a violent storm, their ship ran aground along the coast of an island that may have been Madeira. Later, this legend was the basis of the naming of the city of Machico on the island, in memory of the young lovers.

European exploration

Madeira appears in several medieval manuscripts, including the Book of Knowledge of All Kingdoms from the early 14th century, the Medici-Laurentian Atlas from 1351, the Soleri Portolani from 1380 and 1385 and Corbitis Atlas from the late 14th century. These texts refer to Madeira as Lecmane, Lolegname, Legnami (the isle of wood), Puerto or Porto Santo, deserte or deserta, and desierta. It is widely accepted that knowledge of these Atlantic islands existed before their better-documented discovery and successful settlement by the Kingdom of Portugal.

In 1418, two captains, João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira, while exploring the African coast in the service of Prince Henry the Navigator, were driven off course by a storm to an island which they named Porto Santo (English: "holy harbour") in gratitude for divine deliverance from a shipwreck.

The following year, Zarco and Vaz organised an expedition with Bartolomeu Perestrello. The trio travelled to the island of Porto Santo, claimed it on behalf of the Portuguese Crown, and established a settlement. The new settlers observed "a heavy black cloud suspended to the southwest" and upon investigation discovered the larger island they called Madeira (Portuguese: madeira, lit. 'wood').

Settlement

The first Portuguese settlers began colonizing the islands around 1420 or 1425.

The three governors, knights of the Order of Christ and navigators: João Gonçalves Zarco, Tristão Vaz Teixeira and Bartolomeu Perestrelo, along with their respective families, became the first settlers of the archipelago, divided by three captaincies (respectively Funchal, Machico and Porto Santo). By order of King João I, this colonization process began in 1425 with people of modest means, some former prisoners of the Kingdom, and a group of lower ranking nobles. Included were fishermen and peasant farmers who willingly left Portugal in hopes of a better life than was possible in the Black Death ravaged mainland, wherein nobility strictly controlled the best farmlands. To help clear the island's dense laurisilva forests and transport wood to saw-mills, they brought with them indentured Berber labourers from Morocco.

Conditions did not favour the settlers' initial export, wheat, so that Henry the Navigator ordered the planting of other commercial crops. These included sugar cane, originally traded from India and the Arab world, but already being cultivated for Venetian merchants in Sicily and Cyprus.

Sugar island

Using advisers from Sicily and financed by Genoese capital (keen to bypass the Venetian monopoly in the Mediterranean), the sugar industry on the island was revolutionised by the introduction of water-driven mills and, by what remains today one of the most distinctive features of the Madeiran landscape, the island-wide system of irrigating levadas. By 1490, Madeira had become the principal source of European supply.

Sugar attracted adventurers and merchants from Flanders (Antwerp becoming a major centre for refining and distribution), the Basque country, Catalonia and other parts of Europe. Their wealth and interests contributed to the development of Funchal as a major port of call for American, African and Asian bound shipping.

Enslaved workers were critical to the sugar boom. They laboured not only in the cane fields and sugar mills but also in the construction and maintenance of the levadas, work that might see them suspended by ropes over steep precipices. The enslaved initially consisted of Guanches from the nearby Canary islands and exiled convicts from mainland Portugal, known as Degredados, but these were soon replaced by people traded and seized from coasts of north and west Africa.

In advance of the industry's exhaustion of the island's soils and timber, their numbers peaked within production at the beginning of the 16th century, perhaps 2,000 out of a population of 20,000. Together with a relatively strong Portuguese garrison, the demographic balance may have ensured that, while individuals escaped into the rugged interior, there was not, as in São Tomé from the 1530s and later on the much larger plantations in the Americas, collective slave revolt.

Madeira, itself, became a victim of the slave trade when in 1617 Barbary corsairs are reported to have carried off more than 1,800 people from the main island and Porto Santo. The island, nonetheless, maintained slavery as a legal practice until 1775/77, more than a decade after it had been abolished on the Portuguese mainland.

English wine traders, soldiers and tourists

In the 18th century, sugar plantations were replaced by vineyards, in a wine trade dominated by English merchants. The English traders acquired estates and built houses in Funchal, while supplying markets in Britain, the West Indies and in the North American colonies (where the Founding Fathers of the United States are said to have raised glasses of Madeira wine in a toast to the Declaration of Independence).

The British first amicably occupied the island in 1801, whereafter Colonel William Henry Clinton became governor. A detachment of the 85th Regiment of Foot under Lieutenant-colonel James Willoughby Gordon garrisoned the island.

After the Peace of Amiens, British troops withdrew in 1802, only to reoccupy Madeira in 1807 until the end of the Peninsular War in 1814. In 1846, James Julius Wood wrote a series of seven sketches of the island. In 1856, British troops recovering from cholera, and widows and orphans of soldiers fallen in the Crimean War, were stationed in Funchal, Madeira.

The first tourist guide to Madeira appeared in 1850 and focused on the island's history, geology, flora, fauna and customs. Established by William Reid, the son of a Scottish crofter, the historic Belmond Reid's Palace opened in 1891. Famous guests included Winston Churchill, Józef Piłsudski, Gregory Peck, Rainer Maria Rilke and George Bernard Shaw. This early tourist trade came to depend on the supposed healing qualities of the island's climate such that, when in the twentieth century pasteurisation and antibiotics proved effective against tuberculosis, the number of visitors fell off sharply.

The world wars

During the Great War on 3 December 1916, a German U-boat, SM U-38, entered Funchal harbour on Madeira. U-38 torpedoed and sank three ships, bringing the war to Portugal. After attacking the ships, U-38 bombarded Funchal for two hours from a range of about 3 kilometres (2 mi). Batteries on Madeira returned fire and eventually forced U-38 to withdraw. On 12 December 1917, two German U-boats, SM U-156 and SM U-157 , again bombarded Funchal. There were three fatalities and 17 wounded; several houses and the Santa Clara church were hit.

The last Austrian Emperor and King of Hungary, Charles I, exiled by the Allied Powers to Madeira after the war, died there on 1 April 1922. His sarcophagus lies in a memorial chapel of the Church of Our Lady of Monte.

Portugal in World War II was neutral, but maintained ties to Britain dating from the Treaty of Windsor (1386). As a result, Madeira took 2,000 evacuees from Gibraltar. Many of the Gibraltarians (fondly remembered as Gibraltinos), married locally and stayed on after the war. Some 200 were Jewish. and in Funchal they found a Jewish cemetery that belonged to the Abudarham family, the same family after whom the Abudarham Synagogue is named in Gibraltar.

Economic depression, emigration and revolt

Between the wars, the Great Depression found the island already in a prolonged economic crisis. When the national government took control over imported grain, the price of flour and bread on the island rose dramatically, and strikes and riots broke out. Against this background, in April 1931 the island's garrison participated in a military uprising against the government of the National Dictatorship. Forces sent from the mainland crushed the Madeira uprising only after seven days of fighting.

The growing distress of the islanders accelerated a long-established pattern of emigration to Africa and the Americas. This contributed to the existence today of 350,000 Madeirans and their descendants in South Africa and 200,000 in Venezuela, communities from which in the 21st century there have been many "returnees".

Autonomy

In the wake of the 1974 Carnation Revolution in Lisbon, there was a purported Madeira independence movement. Over the next four years, the Madeira Archipelago Liberation Front (Portuguese: Frente de Libertação do Arquipélago da Madeira), or FLAMA, carried out around 200 bomb attacks on the island (with one fatality). It may have represented more a reaction by some of the regional elites to the advance of the political left in the revolution, than truly ethnic or separatist sentiment. The 1976 Constitution granted Madeira an autonomous administration with its own legislature.

Sign in to keep reading

5 more chapters are free with a Lably account.

More in Physical geography