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History of fashion design

Evolution of fashion world

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History of fashion design
Franz Xaver Winterhalter · Public domain

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Through French Revolution

Before the mid-19th century, there was no overt division between haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, but the most basic pieces of female clothing were made-to-measure by dressmakers and seamstresses dealing directly with the client. Tailors made some female clothing from woollen cloth.

More is known about elite women's fashion than that of any other social group. Early studies of children's fashion typically pulled from sources of folklore, cultural studies, and anthropological field-based works. One trend across centuries was that Christian people typically dressed in their finest clothes, referred to as 'Sunday best', while attending church. Another is the importance of 'hand-me-downs,' receiving used clothing. In addition to hand-me-downs, sharing clothing among siblings has also been a trend throughout history. Prior to the nineteenth century, European and North American children's clothing patterns were often similar to adult's clothing, with children dressed as miniature adults. Textiles have also always been a major part of any fashion as textiles could express the wearer's wealth.

The development of lithography allowed for the cheap production and dissemination of fashion plates, which in turn enabled fashion to spread throughout Europe and the wider world. Fashion plates were typically produced in Paris; regional dressmakers would then interpret and reproduce the clothing depicted. The origin of these designs lay in the clothing created by the most fashionable figures, typically those at court, along with their Dressmakers and tailors. Though there had been distribution of dressed dolls from France since the 16th century and Abraham Bosse had produced engravings of fashion in the 1620s, the pace of change picked up in the 1780s with increased publication of French engravings illustrating the latest Paris styles, followed by fashion magazines such as Cabinet des Modes. In Britain, The Lady's Magazine fulfilled a similar function.

In the 20th century, fashion magazines and, with rotogravure, newspapers, began to include photographs and became even more influential. Throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public taste. Talented illustrators – among them Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Erté, and George Barbier – drew attractive fashion plates for these publications, which covered the most recent developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was La Gazette du Bon Ton which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925.

Before 1900: Couture beginnings

During the early 18th century the first fashion designers came to the fore as the leaders of fashion. In the 1720s, the queen's dressmaker Françoise Leclerc became sought after by the women of the French aristocracy, and in the mid century, Marie Madeleine Duchapt, Mademoiselle Alexandre and Le Sieur Beaulard all gained national recognition and expanded their customer base from the French aristocracy to foreign aristocracy. However, Rose Bertin is generally regarded as the first internationally famous fashion designer.

Rose Bertin (2 July 1747 – 22 September 1813), dubbed the 'Minister of Fashion', was the dressmaker to Marie Antoinette, Queen of France from 1770 to 1793. Bertin opened a shop in Paris and had a considerable influence on Parisian style, until the French Revolution forced her into exile in London.

An outsider in the French Court, Marie Antoinette relied on Bertin's meticulous designs to help her "combat her enemies with style". Marie Antoinette's unique fashion preferences such as masculine riding breeches or simple muslin shift dresses, contrasted sharply with elaborate gowns as the Queen attempted to create a persona that would allow the citizens of France to connect with her and her lifestyle. Although Marie Antoinette's attempts were largely unsuccessful, the way in which Bertin helped the Queen express herself through fashion was groundbreaking and set a precedent for the monarchs who followed, and their designers, such as Louis Hippolyte Leroy. And by the early 19th century, designers such as Ann Margaret Lanchester and Mary Ann Bell were expanding their businesses, and publishing their own designs in fashion magazines. In the first half of the 19th-century fashionable Parisian designers, such as Madame Vignon, Madame Victorine and Madame Palmyre, normally did not independently design a product that their clients could choose to buy, but rather created the product in collaboration with their clients wishes, to produce something unique.

An Englishman living in Paris, Charles Frederick Worth (1825–1905) is regarded as the first designer in the modern sense of the term, with a large business employing many largely anonymous tailors and seamstresses. A former draper, Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate what customers should wear. Launched into the spotlight as the Empress Eugénie's primary designer, Worth used his royal connections to gain recognition and clients. The proclamation on 1 February 1853 by Napoleon III that no visitors would be received to his court without formal dress meant that the popularity of Worth-style gowns became overwhelming. Ornately decorated and constructed from the finest materials, Worth's gowns are well known for their crinolines (cage-like metal structures that held the dress out in a stylish shape).

Throughout the early decades of the 20th century, high fashion originated in Paris and, to a lesser extent, London. Fashion magazines from other countries sent editors to the Paris fashion shows. Department stores also sent buyers to the Paris shows, where they purchased garments to copy (and openly stole the style lines and trim details of others). Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear departments featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores' assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of their targeted people.

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