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Madison, Wisconsin

Capital of Wisconsin, United States

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The Lake Mendota shoreline is pictured in an aerial view of the University of Wisconsin-Madison campus looking toward the downtown Madison skyline during an autumn sunset on Oct. 5, 2011. Major campus
college.library · CC BY 2.0

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As the state capital, Madison is home to government chambers, including the Wisconsin State Capitol. It is also home to the University of Wisconsin–Madison, the flagship campus of the University of Wisconsin System. Major companies in the city include American Family Insurance, Exact Sciences Corporation, and TruStage Financial Group. Tourism also plays a vital role in the local economy, generating over $1 billion in 2018. The city features a variety of cultural and recreational institutions, including the Chazen Museum of Art, Henry Vilas Zoo, Olbrich Botanical Gardens, and Overture Center for the Arts.

As of 2024, Madison is the fastest-growing city in the state. The city has a longstanding reputation for progressive political activity and is regarded as Wisconsin's most politically liberal city. The presence of the University of Wisconsin–Madison and other educational institutions significantly shapes the local economy, culture, and demographics. Madison boasts one of the highest numbers of parks and playgrounds per capita among the 100 largest U.S. cities and is widely recognized as a bicycle-friendly community. Within the city are nine National Historic Landmarks, including several buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

History

Native Americans

Before Europeans, humans inhabited the area in and around Madison for about 12,000 years. The Ho-Chunk called the region Teejop (Ho-Chunk pronunciation: ) meaning 'land of the four lakes' (Mendota, Monona, Waubesa, and Kegonsa). Numerous effigy mounds, constructed for ceremonial and burial purposes more than 1,000 years earlier, dotted the rich prairies around the lakes. Dugout canoes found near many small lakes and rivers are prompting new anthropological research projects.

Founding

Madison's modern origins begin in 1829, when former federal judge James Duane Doty purchased over a thousand acres (4 km2) of swamp and forest land on the isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona, with the intention of building a city in the Four Lakes region. He purchased 1,261 acres for $1,500. When the Wisconsin Territory was created in 1836 the territorial legislature convened in Belmont, Wisconsin. One of the legislature's tasks was to select a permanent location for the territory's capital. Doty lobbied aggressively for Madison as the new capital, offering buffalo robes to the freezing legislators and choice lots in Madison at discount prices to undecided voters. He had James Slaughter plat two cities in the area, Madison and "The City of Four Lakes", near present-day Middleton.

Doty named his city for James Madison, the fourth president of the U.S. who had recently died on June 28, 1836. He named the streets for the other 38 signers of the U.S. Constitution. Although the city existed only on paper, the territorial legislature voted on November 28, 1836, to make Madison its capital, largely because of its location halfway between the new and growing cities around Milwaukee in the east and the long-established strategic post of Prairie du Chien in the west, and between the highly populated lead mining regions in the southwest and Wisconsin's oldest city, Green Bay, in the northeast.

Expansion

The cornerstone for the first Wisconsin State Capitol was laid in 1837, and the legislature first met there in 1838. On October 9, 1839, Kintzing Prichett registered the plat of Madison at the registrar's office of the then-territorial Dane County. Madison was incorporated as a village in 1846, with a population of 626. When Wisconsin became a state in 1848, Madison remained the capital.

The Wisconsin Constitution provided for "the establishment of a state university, at or near the seat of state government..." The University of Wisconsin was created on July 26, 1848, by an act of Governor Nelson Dewey. A permanent campus site was soon selected: an area of 50 acres (20.2 ha) "bounded north by Fourth lake, east by a street to be opened at right angles with King street", [later State Street] "south by Mineral Point Road (University Avenue), and west by a carriage-way from said road to the lake." The regents' building plans called for a "main edifice fronting towards the Capitol, three stories high, surmounted by an observatory for astronomical observations." This building, University Hall, now known as Bascom Hall, was finally completed in 1859.

The Milwaukee & Mississippi Railroad (a predecessor of the Milwaukee Road) connected to Madison in 1854. Madison incorporated as a city in 1856, with a population of 6,863, leaving the unincorporated remainder as a separate Town of Madison. The original capitol was replaced in 1863 and the second capitol burned in 1904. The current capitol was built between 1906 and 1917.

During the Civil War, Madison served as a center of the Union Army in Wisconsin. The intersection of Milwaukee, East Washington, Winnebago, and North Streets is known as Union Corners because a tavern there was the last stop for Union soldiers before leaving to fight the Confederates. Camp Randall, on Madison's west side, was built and used as a training camp, a military hospital, and a prison camp for captured Confederate soldiers. After the war, the Camp Randall site was absorbed into the University of Wisconsin, and Camp Randall Stadium was built there in 1917. In 2004 the last vestige of active military training on the site was removed when the stadium renovation replaced a firing range used for ROTC training.

1960s and 1970s

In the 1960s and 1970s, the Madison counterculture centered on the neighborhood of Mifflin and Bassett streets, known as "Miffland". The area contained many three-story apartments where students and counterculture youth lived, painted murals, and operated the cooperative grocery store the Mifflin Street Co-op. Residents of the neighborhood often came into conflict with authorities, particularly during the administration of Republican mayor Bill Dyke. Students saw Dyke as a direct antagonist in efforts to protest the Vietnam War because of his efforts to suppress local protests. The annual Mifflin Street Block Party became a focal point for protest, although by the late 1970s it had become a mainstream community party.

During the late 1960s and early 1970s, thousands of students and other citizens took part in anti-Vietnam War marches and demonstrations, with more violent incidents drawing national attention to the city and UW campus. These included the 1967 student protest of Dow Chemical Company, with 74 injured; the 1969 strike to secure greater representation and rights for African-American students and faculty, which resulted in the involvement of the Wisconsin Army National Guard; and the 1970 fire that damaged the Army ROTC headquarters housed in the University of Wisconsin Armory and Gymnasium. It culminated with the Sterling Hall bombing in 1970, which was intended to destroy the university's Army Mathematics Research Center. It also caused massive destruction to other parts of the building and nearby buildings and resulted in the death of researcher Robert Fassnacht.

These protests are the subject of the 1979 documentary The War at Home. David Maraniss's 2004 book They Marched into Sunlight incorporates the 1967 Dow protests into a larger Vietnam War narrative. Tom Bates wrote the book Rads on the subject (ISBN 0-06-092428-4). According to Bates, Dyke's attempt to suppress the annual Mifflin Street Block Party "would take three days, require hundreds of officers on overtime pay, and engulf the student community from the nearby Southeast Dorms to Langdon Street's fraternity row. Tear gas hung like heavy fog across the Isthmus." In the fracas, student activist Paul Soglin, then a city alderman, was arrested twice and taken to jail. Soglin was later elected mayor of Madison in 1973 and served a total of 22 years as mayor.

21st century

Madison was the site of the 2011 Wisconsin protests against 2011 Wisconsin Act 10, a bill proposed by Governor Scott Walker that abolished almost all collective bargaining for public worker unions. The protests at the capitol ranged from 10,000 to over 100,000 people and lasted several months. On October 31, 2022, the city annexed the majority of the remaining Town of Madison. The 2024 Abundant Life Christian School shooting occurred on the city's east side, resulting in three deaths and six injuries.

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