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Sukhothai Historical Park

UNESCO World Heritage Site in Sukhothai province Thailand

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This is a photo of a monument in Thailand identified by the ID
Khunkay · CC BY-SA 4.0

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Through UNESCO

The city's walls form a rectangle about 2 km (1.2 mi) east-west by 1.6 km (0.99 mi) north-south. There are 193 ruins on 70 km2 (27 sq mi) of land. There is a gate in the centre of each wall. Inside are the remains of the royal palace and twenty-six temples, the largest being Wat Mahathat. The park is maintained by the Fine Arts Department of Thailand with help from UNESCO, which has declared it a World Heritage Site. Each year, the park welcomes thousands of visitors.

History

Settlement to the 11th century

The traditions that report the founding of the town disagree with one another, and none of them is contemporary. One chronicle tradition places it in 494 CE, followed by the twin city of Chaliang. The Legend of the Arhat gives 679 CE instead and names the founder as Indrajayadhirāja, from a city called Nakhon Luang, who was deposed in 687 by Balidhiraja, the elder son of Kalavarnadisharaja of Lavo. A local textual tradition then brings Sukhothai and Lavo under the authority of Padumasūriyavaṁśa, presented as the first Siamese sovereign, whose reign is conventionally dated to the second half of the 8th century.

Tatsuo Hoshino reaches a comparable position from the Chinese records. The Cefu Yuangui and the Book of Tang have the territory of Qiān, centred at Si Thep, bordering to the north on Duō Mó Cháng, which he places in the Yom and Nan basins. On that reading the Sukhothai–Chaliang region was subordinate to Si Thep between the 8th and 10th centuries.

The town is generally presumed to have been abandoned during the 9th and 10th centuries after an incursion attributed to the legendary Khom polity of Suvarṇakōmakam, although a separate tradition has Sukhothai taking an active part in the succession of the Dvaravati polity of Sambuka in the same period. It is reported to have been taken in 957 by the Mon monarch Abhayakamini, and to have declared its independence in 1017. Standing on the routes that joined the Mon city-states to the west, the Tai polities to the north and the Xiān polities of the lower Chao Phraya River to the south, it is thought to have grown into a regional entrepôt and to have reached the level of a city-state by no later than 1127.

The site to the 13th century

Chris Baker and Pasuk Phongpaichit describe the site in two stages. Around the town lie some thirty moated sites resembling those of the Chao Phraya plain and the Isan plateau over the previous five centuries, and to the west of the town are earthworks that direct water down from the hills in what they call the characteristic style of Tai settlement. A Khmer-style town appeared probably around 1200; later in the 13th century a much larger walled and moated town of 1.9 by 1.4 kilometers was built immediately to the south, which they read as marking an influx of people. That newer town has the Angkor-influenced plan, square, with a relic stupa near the centre and a baray outside the walls.

Monuments in Angkorian style stand in the park, among them the Ta Pha Daeng shrine, Wat Phra Phai Luang, and Wat Sisawai. A Buddha image of the Jayabuddhamahānātha type appears to have been enshrined at Wat Phra Phai Luang by 1191. These images bore Jayavarman VII's own features and were sent, by the Preah Khan inscription of that year, to twenty-three cities; Baker and Pasuk hold that without corroborating evidence of military or administrative power a better characterisation of the gift is cultural diplomacy. Whether the images left Angkor at all is disputed. Pises Jiajanpong reads the Bayon inscriptions, which record particular images as established there, as casting doubt on it; Wyatt answers that portable replicas stood at Angkor for the annual ceremonies and points to finds at Sukhothai and Phimai. About 50 kilometers north of Sukhothai lies Si Satchanalai or Sri Sajanalaya. The Ta Pha Daeng shrine carries no name of its own from the period. The one it is known by is local and later, and no name for it has been found in any inscription. Sujit Wongthes places it south of and outside the earlier town at Wat Phra Phai Luang, and north of the inner town of the later walled one.

Sukhothai has conventionally been described as an outpost of the Khmer Empire named Sukhodaya. How far Angkorian authority actually reached is disputed. Baker and Pasuk find no administrative trace of it west of the Khmer country. The plain has yielded none of the temple-endowment inscriptions characteristic of Angkorian provinces, and Jayavarman VII's hospital foundations reach no further west than Prachin Buri in eastern Thailand, which they take to show cultural influence rather than administration.

Lines active in the upper valley

Several ruling lines are recorded in the upper valley before 1239, and the chronicle and epigraphic traditions do not agree on how they were connected. The Northern Chronicle places the origins of Uthong I at Chaliang, from where he moved south in the mid-12th century and took the vacant throne of Suphannaphum in 1163. The Ayutthaya Testimonies make him the younger brother of Pra Poa Noome Thele Seri, who went on to rule Phrip Phri in 1188.

A second line is known from epigraphy rather than chronicle. The Wat Si Chum Inscription names Sri Naw Nam Thum as lord of Chaliang and Sukhothai in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. He is generally taken to have built that position through his son Pha Mueang, ruler of Mueang Rat, and through Pha Mueang's marriage to a princess under the suzerainty of Jayavarman VII. Pha Mueang held Angkorian honours of his own, a title, a regalia sword and the marriage, which is why Baker and Pasuk read the contest that followed as one between local lords who both stood in the Angkorian orbit rather than between a Tai party and a Khmer one.

A third line is given by the Ayutthaya Testimonies, which make Candraraja ruler first of Vicitraprakāra, identified with Kamphaeng Phet, and then of Sukhothai, to which he moved his seat, and the father of Bang Klang Hao. On that account the family that took the town in 1239 was already established in the upper valley, and the event was a change of hands among neighbours rather than the arrival of a new people.

Sukhothai in the 13th century

Prior to the 13th century, a succession of Tai kingdoms existed in the northern highlands including the Ngoenyang (centered on Chiang Saen, predecessor of Lan Na) kingdom and the Heokam (centered on Chiang Hung, modern Jinghong in China) kingdom of Tai Lue people. Sukhothai has been described as a trade centre within the orbit of Lawo. The migration of Tai people into the upper Chao Phraya valley was somewhat gradual.

Sri Naw Nam Thum ruled Sukhothai together with the neighbouring city of Si Satchanalai in the late 12th and early 13th centuries, and lost the town about 1180 to Khom Sabat Khlon Lamphong.

Two brothers, Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao and Pho Khun Pha Mueang, took Sukhothai in 1239. Khun (ขุน), before it became a Thai feudal title, was a Tai title for a ruler of a fortified town and its surrounding villages, together called a muang; in older usage prefixed pho (พ่อ) 'father', Comparable in sound and meaning to rural English 'paw'. Bang Klang Hao ruled Sukhothai as Sri Indraditya and began the Phra Ruang dynasty. He expanded his kingdom to bordering cities. At the end of his reign in 1257, the Sukhothai Kingdom covered the entire upper valley of the Chao Phraya River (then known simply as Menam, 'mother of waters', the generic Thai name for rivers.)

The event is read in two ways. In the account of Griswold and Prasert na Nagara, Khom Sabat Khlon Lamphong was the commander of a Khmer garrison and 1238 the liberation of Sukhothai from Khmer suzerainty under a Tai dynasty. More recent work has withdrawn the supports for that reading. The etymological analysis finds no element of rank in the name, and the term Khom is not a reliable ethnic marker. In its place he is treated as a local figure who kept political affiliations with Lavo, itself under the influence of the Angkorian Mahidharapura line by the 1180s. Chris Baker and Pasuk Phongpaichit read the inscription as recording a victory by one local lord associated with Angkor over another holding a Khmer title, Pha Mueang the victor having himself received a title, a regalia sword and a princess in marriage from the ruler at Angkor. Sukhothai remained the centre of Tai power in the upper valley until the end of the 14th century.

Traditional Thai historians considered the founding of the Sukhothai Kingdom as the beginning of the Thai nation because little was known about the kingdoms prior to Sukhothai. Modern historical studies demonstrate that Thai history began before Sukhothai. Yet the foundation of Sukhothai is still a celebrated event.

Expansions under Ramkamhaeng

Pho Khun Ban Muang and his brother Ram Khamhaeng expanded the Sukhothai Kingdom. To the south, Ramkamhaeng subjugated the kingdoms of Supannabhum and Sri Thamnakorn (Tambralinga) and, through Tambralinga, adopted Theravada as the state religion. To the north, Ramkamhaeng put Phrae and Muang Sua (Luang Prabang) under tribute.

To the west, Ramkhamhaeng helped the Mons under Wareru (who is said to have eloped with Ramkamhaeng's daughter) to free themselves from Pagan domination and establish a kingdom at Martaban (they later moved to Pegu). So, Thai historians considered the Kingdom of Martaban a Sukhothai tributary. In practice, Sukhothai domination may not have extended that far.

With regard to culture, Ramkhamhaeng had the monks from Sri Thamnakorn propagate the Theravada religion in Sukhothai. In 1283, Ramkamhaeng is said to have invented Thai script, incorporating it into the controversial Ramkamhaeng Stele discovered by Mongkut 600 years later.

It was also during this period that the first contacts with Yuan dynasty were established and Sukhothai began sending trade missions to China. One well-known export of Sukhothai was the Sangkalok (Song dynasty pottery). This was the only period that Siam produced Chinese-styled ceramics, which fell out of use by the 14th century.

Decline and domination of Ayutthaya

Sukhothai domination was short-lived. After the death of Ramkhamhaeng in 1298, Sukhothai's tributaries broke away. Ramkhamhaeng was succeeded by his son, Loe Thai. The vassal kingdoms followed, first Uttaradit in the north, then the Laotian kingdoms of Luang Prabang and Vientiane (Wiangchan). In 1319 the Mon state to the west broke away, and in 1321 the Lanna absorbed Tak, one of the oldest towns under the control of Sukhothai. To the south, the powerful city of Suphanburi also broke free early in the reign of Loe Thai. Thus the kingdom was quickly reduced to its former local importance only. Finally in 1378, the armies of the expanding Ayutthaya Kingdom invaded and forced Sukhothai's King Thammaracha II to yield to this new power. After the Battle of Sittaung River in 1583, King Naresuan of Phitsanulok (and crown prince of Ayutthaya) forcibly relocated people from Sukhothai and surrounding areas to the Southern Central plain, due to the war with the Burmese and an earthquake.

Later development

Sukhothai repopulated again but declined due to successive Burmese–Siamese wars, especially the Burmese–Siamese War (1765–67). In 1793 Rama I, after establishing Bangkok as a new capital city of the kingdom, founded New Sukhothai in Thani, 12 km (7.5 mi) to the east of old Sukhothai, thus abandoning Sukhothai. In 1801 Rama I commissioned the construction of many royal temples in the capital city. He ordered that old Buddha images be brought to Bangkok from the ruined temples around the country. One of the Buddha images is the eight metre (25-foot) tall bronze Phra Sri Sakyamuni (Thai: พระศรีศากยมุนี; RTGS: phra si sakkayamuni), the principal Buddha image of Wat Suthat, which was the principal Buddha image of Wat Mahathat, the biggest temple in Sukhothai. In 1833 Mongkut, during his monkhood, travelled to Sukhothai and discovered the controversial Ramkhamhaeng stele in Wat Mahathat and other artifacts, now in the National Museum in Bangkok. The formal name of this stone is The King Ram Khamhaeng Inscription Documentary heritage inscribed on the Memory of the World Register in 2003 by UNESCO.

In 1907, Vajiravudh, as crown prince, conducted a two-month archaeological field trip to Nakhon Sawan, Kampheang Phet, Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai, Uttaradit, and Pitsanulok. He later published "Phra Ruang City Journey" (Thai: เที่ยวเมืองพระร่วง; RTGS: Thiao Muang Phra Ruang) to promote historical and archaeological study by the public. The work has been used by later archaeologists and historians including Damrong Rajanubhab, the founder of the modern Thai educational system and George Coedès, a 20th-century scholar of southeast Asian archaeology and history.

In July 1988 the historical park was officially opened. On 12 December 1991, it was declared a World Heritage Site as part of the Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns together with the associated historical parks in Kamphaeng Phet and Si Satchanalai.

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